Can I lower my dirt bike? Yes, you absolutely can! Many riders, especially those with a short rider bike fit, choose to lower their dirt bike. This helps them touch the ground better and feel safer. What is the best way to lower a dirt bike? There are several ways to do this. These include using a suspension lowering kit, adjusting rear shock preload, and changing fork lowering methods. This guide will show you how to set up your bike so it fits you perfectly. You will gain more control and confidence on the trails.
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Why Lower Your Dirt Bike?
Lowering a dirt bike is not just for short riders. It offers many benefits that can improve your riding experience.
Many riders find it hard to touch the ground fully when stopped. This makes them feel less safe. Lowering your dirt bike can fix this. It helps you get both feet down. This gives you more control. It also makes you more confident on the bike. For those with a short rider bike fit, lowering is a great option. It customizes the bike just for you.
- More Confidence: When you can touch the ground easily, you feel safer. This is true whether you are starting, stopping, or going slow. You can recover from a small tip-over more easily. This confidence lets you push your limits.
- Better Control: Being able to put your feet down helps you balance the bike. This is very helpful in tricky spots. Think about tight turns or technical sections. You can steady the bike with your feet.
- Improved Safety: Falling off a bike because you cannot reach the ground is common. Lowering your bike reduces this risk. It helps prevent low-speed tipovers.
- Custom Fit: Every rider is different. A standard dirt bike might not fit everyone. Lowering it makes the bike fit your body. It makes the riding position feel natural. This leads to less fatigue. You will have more fun on your rides.
Key Things to Know Before You Begin
Before you start changing your bike’s height, there are a few important things to consider. These will help you make good choices. They will also keep you safe.
- Safety First: Working on your bike’s suspension needs care. If done wrong, it can be dangerous. Make sure you use the right tools. Follow all steps carefully. If you are unsure, ask a professional for help.
- Bike Manual: Your bike’s owner’s manual has important details. It shows how parts work. It lists torque specs. Always check your manual first.
- Proper Tools: You will need basic hand tools. You might need special tools too. These include a torque wrench, shock spanner wrenches, and possibly a fork spring compressor.
- Impact on Handling: Lowering your bike changes how it handles. It lowers the center of gravity. This can make the bike feel more stable. But it also reduces ground clearance impact. This means your bike might hit rocks or logs more easily. We will talk more about this later.
- Suspension Travel: Some lowering methods reduce how far your suspension can move. This is called suspension travel. Less travel means the bike might bottom out more often. This can make rides rougher. It can also damage parts.
- Seek Advice: Talk to experienced riders or mechanics. They can offer tips. They can tell you about common problems. This can save you time and trouble.
Front End Lowering Methods
Lowering the front of your dirt bike is often easier than the rear. It usually involves adjusting the forks.
Adjusting Fork Height: Triple Clamp Adjustment
One of the simplest fork lowering methods is adjusting the forks in the triple clamps. This method is quick and reversible. It does not cost much.
- What it is: Your front forks slide through two clamps. These are called the upper and lower triple clamps. You can loosen these clamps. Then, you slide the forks up or down. Sliding them up (further through the clamps) makes the front of the bike lower.
- How to do it:
- Lift the Front: Put your bike on a stand. The front wheel should be off the ground.
- Loosen Bolts: Loosen the pinch bolts on both the upper and lower triple clamps. Do not loosen them too much. You just need the forks to be able to slide.
- Slide Forks: Carefully slide both fork tubes up through the triple clamps. Make sure both sides move the same amount. Measure from the top of the fork tube to the top of the triple clamp. Aim for an equal change on both sides.
- Do Not Overdo It: Most bikes can handle 10-20mm (about 0.4-0.8 inches) of adjustment this way. Going too far can make the front wheel hit the fender. It can also make the bike unstable at high speeds.
- Tighten Bolts: Once set, tighten all pinch bolts to the torque specs in your bike manual. Tighten them in steps. Go back and forth between bolts and clamps. This ensures even pressure.
- Check Clearances: Turn the handlebars from side to side. Make sure no cables or hoses pull tight. Check that the front wheel does not hit anything when the suspension is fully compressed.
Internal Fork Lowering
This method makes a more permanent change. It is usually done by a suspension expert.
- What it is: This involves taking the forks apart. A spacer is added inside the fork. This spacer limits how far the fork can extend. It reduces the total length of the fork.
- How it works: A small, solid spacer is put on the damper rod. This shortens the fork’s extended length. This lowers the bike’s front end. It also reduces suspension travel.
- Pros: It is a very effective way to lower the bike. It keeps the same spring rate.
- Cons: It needs special tools. It is a complex job. It is best done by a pro. It reduces front suspension travel. This means the forks cannot absorb bumps as much.
Shorter Fork Springs
Another way to lower the front is to use shorter fork springs.
- What it is: Your forks have springs inside. These springs hold up the bike. You can replace the standard springs with shorter ones.
- How it works: Shorter springs mean the forks sit lower. This lowers the front of the bike.
- Pros: It is a direct way to lower the bike.
- Cons: It can change the spring rate. Shorter springs might be stiffer or softer. This can affect handling. You might need to change other parts too. This also often reduces travel. It is a more involved job.
Rear End Lowering Methods
Lowering the rear of a dirt bike can be more complex. It often involves changing suspension components.
Lowering Links: Suspension Lowering Kit
Using a suspension lowering kit that includes a lowering link is a common and effective way.
- What it is: A lowering link is a small metal part. It replaces the stock link that connects the rear shock to the swingarm. It changes the angle and leverage of the shock. This makes the rear of the bike sit lower.
- How it works: The new link is designed to be slightly longer than the original. This small change in length makes the rear shock sit higher in its travel. This effectively lowers the bike’s rear.
- Lowering Link Installation:
- Lift the Rear: Put your bike on a stand. The rear wheel should be off the ground. Support the bike safely.
- Remove Old Link: Locate the stock lowering link. It is usually a small metal part with two bolts. One bolt connects to the swingarm. The other connects to the shock or frame. Remove both bolts. The old link will come off.
- Install New Link: Place the new lowering link in the same spot. Make sure the bolts go through cleanly. You might need to move the swingarm up or down a little to line up the holes.
- Grease Bearings: It is a good idea to clean and grease the needle bearings. These are where the link connects. This makes parts last longer.
- Tighten Bolts: Put the nuts back on. Tighten all bolts to the torque specs in your bike manual.
- Check Movement: Once installed, move the swingarm up and down. Make sure the new link moves freely.
- Pros: It is a popular option. It offers a good amount of lowering. Many kits are available.
- Cons: It changes the shock’s leverage ratio. This can make the shock feel softer. You might need to adjust the shock or get a stiffer spring. It can also reduce suspension travel.
Rear Shock Internal Changes
This method is similar to internal fork lowering. It needs a professional.
- What it is: This involves taking the rear shock apart. A spacer is added inside. This limits how far the shock can extend.
- How it works: A spacer is put on the shock’s shaft. This shortens the shock’s overall length. This lowers the bike’s rear. It also reduces rear wheel travel.
- Pros: Very effective for specific lowering amounts.
- Cons: Needs special tools and skills. Best left to a suspension expert. Reduces shock travel. This means the bike might bottom out more.
Adjusting Rear Shock Preload
This method is about adjusting the spring, not the shock’s total length.
- What it is: Rear shock preload is how much the spring is compressed when the bike is at rest. There are usually two nuts on the shock body. These nuts hold the spring in place.
- How it works: You can loosen these nuts. Then, you turn them to move the spring up or down. Reducing the preload makes the spring softer. This allows the shock to sag more under the bike’s weight. This makes the bike sit lower.
- Pros: It is easy to do. It does not cost anything. It does not change the shock’s internal length.
- Cons: It only offers a small amount of lowering (around 10-20mm). If you reduce preload too much, the spring might become too soft. This can make the bike feel bouncy. It can also cause bottoming out. This method is mostly used for setting sag, not for major height changes. It should be used with other methods.
Crucial Post-Lowering Adjustments
After you lower your dirt bike, you cannot just ride it. Several other adjustments are vital. They make sure the bike handles safely and correctly.
Setting Suspension Sag: Suspension Sag Setup
This is one of the most important steps after any suspension change. Suspension sag setup is key to good handling.
- What it is: Sag is how much your suspension compresses under its own weight and your weight. It is measured in two parts: static sag and rider sag.
- Static Sag (Free Sag): How much the bike settles under its own weight.
- Rider Sag (Race Sag): How much the bike settles with you sitting on it in your riding gear.
- Why it matters: Proper sag ensures your wheels stay in contact with the ground. This gives you good traction. It also allows the suspension to work properly. If sag is too little, the bike feels stiff. If it is too much, the bike feels soft and bottoms out.
- How to measure:
- Lift Bike: Lift the bike so both wheels are off the ground. Measure from the rear axle to a fixed point on the fender. Write this number down (Measurement 1).
- On Ground: Gently lower the bike to the ground. Let the suspension settle. Bounce it a few times. Measure from the rear axle to the same point on the fender (Measurement 2).
- Static Sag: Subtract Measurement 2 from Measurement 1. This is your static sag.
- Rider Sag: Sit on the bike in your riding gear. Have a friend hold the bike steady. Do not put your feet down. Have another friend measure from the axle to the fender again (Measurement 3).
- Rider Sag: Subtract Measurement 3 from Measurement 1. This is your rider sag.
- Adjusting Sag: You adjust sag using the rear shock preload nuts.
- To reduce sag (make the bike taller), tighten the preload nuts (compress the spring more).
- To increase sag (make the bike lower), loosen the preload nuts (compress the spring less).
- Target Sag: Most dirt bikes aim for 30-35% of total suspension travel for rider sag. Check your bike’s manual for specific numbers.
- Fork Sag: You should also measure and adjust fork sag. This uses similar steps. Use the preload adjusters on your forks or change spring rates if needed.
Checking Ground Clearance: Ground Clearance Impact
When you lower your bike, you reduce its ground clearance impact. This is the space between the lowest part of your bike and the ground.
- Why it matters: Less ground clearance means your bike is more likely to hit things. This includes rocks, logs, or ruts. Hitting these things can damage your engine cases, frame, or exhaust pipe.
- What to do:
- Measure: After lowering, measure the distance from the bottom of your frame or engine to the ground.
- Be Aware: Know your new clearance. Ride more carefully over obstacles.
- Add Protection: Consider adding a robust skid plate. This protects your engine and frame from impacts.
Adjusting Your Kickstand: Kickstand Length Correction
A lowered bike will lean over much more on its original kickstand. This makes it unstable. Kickstand length correction is usually needed.
- Why it matters: If your kickstand is too long, the bike will stand too straight. It might tip over easily. If it is too short, the bike will lean too much. This can also make it unstable.
- What to do:
- Test: Put your lowered bike on its kickstand. See how much it leans.
- Shorten: You will likely need to shorten the kickstand. You can cut a piece out of the middle. Then, weld it back together. Or, you can cut the bottom and weld a new foot on.
- Professional Help: If you cannot weld, take it to a metal shop. They can do it for you.
- Adjustable Kickstands: Some companies sell adjustable kickstands. These are a good option. They let you find the perfect length.
Adjusting Controls
Lowering the bike changes your riding position. You might need to move your controls.
- Handlebar Position: You might feel more bent over. You can rotate your handlebars forward. This opens up the riding position.
- Lever Angle: Adjust your brake and clutch levers. Make sure they are at a comfortable angle for your hands.
- Foot Pegs: Some bikes have adjustable foot pegs. Lowering them can also help. This gives you more legroom. It can make you feel more in control.
Considering a Shorter Seat: Dirt Bike Seat Height
While not a suspension change, a shorter seat can greatly help with dirt bike seat height.
- What it is: A shorter seat has less foam. It makes the distance from the seat to the ground smaller.
- Pros: It is an easy way to get more ground reach. It does not change how your suspension works.
- Cons: Less foam can make the seat less comfortable. It might be harder on long rides.
- Options: You can buy a factory low seat. Or, you can have a local upholstery shop shave down your existing seat.
Step-by-Step Guide for Lowering Your Dirt Bike
Here is a general order for lowering your bike. Remember to always consult your bike’s manual.
- Plan Your Lowering Amount: Decide how much you want to lower your bike. Start small. You can always go lower later. Think about how much ground reach you need.
- Gather Tools and Parts: Get all the tools ready. Have your new lowering link or any other parts on hand.
- Work on the Front Forks (Triple Clamp Adjustment):
- Put the bike on a stand. The front wheel should be off the ground.
- Loosen the pinch bolts on the top and bottom triple clamps.
- Slide the forks up evenly through the clamps. Measure carefully. A common start is 10-15mm.
- Tighten the pinch bolts to the correct torque.
- Check for any clearance issues with the fender or hoses.
- Install Rear Lowering Link (If using):
- Keep the bike on the stand. Ensure the rear wheel is off the ground.
- Remove the old link.
- Install the new lowering link. Make sure the bolts are properly greased and tightened to torque.
- Set Rider Sag:
- Once the bike is lowered, put it on its wheels.
- Follow the steps for suspension sag setup. Adjust rear shock preload until you reach your target rider sag.
- Adjust fork sag as well using the preload adjusters on your forks.
- Adjust Controls:
- Sit on the bike. Adjust your handlebars and levers for comfort.
- Check Ground Clearance:
- Measure your new ground clearance impact. Be aware of it.
- Address the Kickstand:
- Test your kickstand. If it is too long, get it shortened or replaced. This is a critical safety step.
- Fine-Tune and Test Ride:
- Once everything is adjusted, go for a slow test ride. Start on smooth ground.
- Pay attention to how the bike feels. Does it turn well? Does the suspension feel balanced?
- Make small adjustments as needed. Take notes of what you change.
Table: Common Lowering Methods and Their Impact
| Method | Location | Lowering Amount | Cost | Complexity | Impact on Travel | Notes |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| Triple Clamp Adjustment | Front | 10-20mm (0.4-0.8in) | Low | Easy | None | Simple, reversible. Max limit varies. |
| Lowering Links | Rear | 20-50mm (0.8-2in) | Medium | Medium | Minor to Moderate | Changes shock leverage. May need spring. |
| Internal Fork Spacer | Front | 20-50mm (0.8-2in) | High | High | Significant | Pro job. Reduces performance on bumps. |
| Rear Shock Spacer | Rear | 20-50mm (0.8-2in) | High | High | Significant | Pro job. Reduces performance on bumps. |
| Shorter Springs | Both | Varies | Medium | Medium | Varies | Changes spring rate, affects handling. |
| Rear Shock Preload | Rear | 10-20mm (0.4-0.8in) | Low | Easy | None (for height) | Primarily for sag, not major lowering. |
| Shaved Seat | N/A | 10-30mm (0.4-1.2in) | Low | Easy | None | Affects comfort. |
Testing and Fine-Tuning Your Lowered Bike
Lowering your bike is a big change. It is vital to test it properly. Then, fine-tune it.
- First Ride:
- Start on a flat, safe area. Get a feel for the bike.
- Ride slowly at first. Practice stopping and starting.
- Notice how the bike turns. Does it feel stable?
- Progressive Testing:
- Move to light trails or paths you know well.
- Gradually increase speed. Ride over small bumps.
- Listen for any strange noises. Feel for any odd movements.
- Look for Balance:
- A properly lowered bike should feel balanced. The front and rear should work together.
- If the front feels too low, the steering might be too quick. It might feel twitchy.
- If the rear feels too low, the front might feel light. It might be hard to keep the front wheel down.
- Adjust Suspension Clickers:
- Your forks and shock have clickers. These adjust compression and rebound damping.
- You might need to adjust these. This helps the suspension work well with the new height.
- Start by making small changes. One or two clicks at a time. Write down your starting settings.
- If the bike feels bouncy, increase rebound damping.
- If it feels harsh over bumps, decrease compression damping.
- Keep Notes:
- Write down all your changes. Note how the bike felt after each change.
- This helps you go back to old settings if needed. It also helps you learn what works best.
- Do Not Rush:
- Do not try to get it perfect in one day. It takes time to dial in suspension.
- Ride the bike in different conditions. Make small adjustments over several rides.
Pros and Cons of Lowering Your Dirt Bike
Like any major change, lowering your dirt bike has good points and bad points.
Pros:
- Increased Confidence: You can put your feet down easily. This makes you feel more secure.
- Better Control: Easier to balance in slow, tricky spots.
- Safer Stops: Less chance of tipping over when you stop.
- Custom Fit: The bike fits you better. It feels more natural to ride.
- Improved Low-Speed Handling: Can make the bike feel more nimble.
Cons:
- Reduced Ground Clearance: Your bike might hit obstacles more often. This can damage parts.
- Altered Handling: Can change steering feel. It might affect high-speed stability.
- Reduced Suspension Travel: Some methods reduce how far the suspension can move. This means less bump absorption. The bike might bottom out more.
- Kickstand Issues: You will almost certainly need to shorten your kickstand.
- Tire Clearance: The front tire might hit the fender or exhaust at full compression. Check this carefully.
- Resale Value: A heavily modified bike might be harder to sell. Or, it might sell for less.
Is Professional Help Needed?
You can do some lowering methods yourself. Others are best left to experts.
- DIY Friendly:
- Triple clamp adjustment is simple. Many riders can do this at home.
- Lowering link installation is also manageable for a home mechanic.
- Adjusting rear shock preload for sag is a basic task.
- Pro Recommended:
- Internal fork lowering needs special tools. It also needs knowledge of suspension.
- Rear shock internal changes are even more complex.
- Installing shorter springs can be tricky. It often means changing oil too.
- Any welding for kickstand length correction needs a skilled welder.
- When in Doubt: If you are unsure about any step, get help. A suspension shop can do the job right. They can also tune your suspension. They will make sure it works well with the new height. This can save you money and headaches in the long run. Safety is always worth the cost.
Frequently Asked Questions (FAQ)
Q1: How much can I lower my dirt bike safely?
A1: It depends on the bike and method. Using triple clamp adjustment and a lowering link together can lower a bike by 1.5 to 2.5 inches. Going beyond this often means reducing suspension travel. This can make the bike hit bumps hard. Always check tire and fender clearance.
Q2: Does lowering my dirt bike affect its performance?
A2: Yes, it can. It lowers the center of gravity. This might make the bike feel more stable. But it also reduces ground clearance impact. This can make it hit things more often. It can also reduce suspension travel. This means the bike will not soak up big bumps as well. You might need to adjust other suspension settings to get the best feel.
Q3: Do I need to buy a special lowering kit?
A3: For the rear, a suspension lowering kit with a lowering link is the most common way. For the front, you might just slide the forks in the triple clamps. Or, you might need internal spacers or shorter springs.
Q4: Will I need a new kickstand if I lower my bike?
A4: Yes, almost always. When you lower your bike, the original kickstand becomes too long. The bike will stand too straight or even fall over. You will need a kickstand length correction. This means shortening your old one or buying an adjustable one.
Q5: What is “sag” and why is it important after lowering?
A5: Sag is how much your suspension compresses under its own weight and your weight. It is vital for proper handling. After lowering, you must reset your suspension sag setup. This ensures the wheels stay on the ground. It also makes sure your suspension works as it should. You adjust sag using rear shock preload and fork preload.
Q6: Can lowering a dirt bike be reversed?
A6: Yes, most methods are reversible. Sliding forks in the triple clamps is very easy to undo. Removing a lowering link is also simple. Internal spacers can be removed, but it is more complex. You would put the bike back to its stock height.